De GRISOGONO Allegra Picture: Trendy Luxurious
We regularly hear that the watch is the one jewellery made for males, and this assertion, no matter reality it holds, is nonetheless taken actually by lots of those that are keen about horology. In sure markets, there’s a distinct choice amongst males for timepieces which might be each technical and bejeweled, in addition to these devoted to métiers d’artwork. Watchmakers won’t (but) take it upon themselves to develop gem-set males’s watches for Spain or the US (though such fashions are more and more effectively acquired), however it’s a totally different story within the Center East, India or Mexico. This very specific providing is thus discovered solely on the outer confines of haute horology, in territory the place excessive trend and even excessive jewellery don’t enterprise, too busy incomes their watchmaking stripes in a extra traditional masculine register. In these circumstances, there isn’t a query of reversing the pathway typically taken by watchmakers who shrink males’s watches and set them with diamonds to make ladies’s variations. It could be not possible to start out with a lady’s watch and make a model for males. For watch manufacturers, which means valuable horology supplies a artistic territory—that includes its personal codes and above all uncommon strategies—that can also be supposed for an viewers of aficionados.
One want solely have a look at the distinctive collections offered by Piaget below the title Legendary Journey to understand that the creation of watches akin to these arises from its personal distinct philosophy, wherein the measurement of time is subordinate to métiers d’artwork that actually have little or no to do with the fairer intercourse. The Genevan Manufacture started this watchmaking odyssey in 2013 with “Silk Highway,” extending it in late 2015 with the presentation of “Secrets and techniques & Lights,” a set impressed by the symbolism of Venice and Samarkand. This assortment featured 15 fashions interpreted in 93 jewellery creations and 38 watch fashions, which draw on strategies akin to sculpture, gold engraving, micromosaic, gemsetting, Bulino engraving, enameling and even lacquer encrusted with eggshells and bits of feathers. Only one instance on this dazzling collection of masterpieces: the Piaget Protocol XXL, for which the Italian artisan Cesare Bella meticulously positioned almost 5,000 minuscule glass tesserae to create a panoramic view of Santa Maria Della Salute overlooking the mouth of Venice’s Grand Canal.
Blancpain Métiers d’Artwork Picture: Trendy Luxurious
The mastery of métiers d’artwork is on this sense an incomparable opening for brand new modes of expression in horology. We communicate right here of strategies that go above and past gem-setting, and which only a few homes rely amongst their expertise. That is why the identical few names come up in any dialogue of the subject: Blancpain’s Métiers d’artwork collections, Jaquet Droz’s Ateliers d’artwork traces, Van Cleef & Arpels’s Problems Poétiques.
Jaquet Droz Ateliers d’Artwork Picture: Trendy Luxurious
And Vacheron Constantin, an incomparable model with its Métiers d’artwork traces, whose Mécaniques Ajourées and Elégance Sartoriale are intimately tied to the masculine universe. Hermès is one other pressure on this world, as is Cartier, which two years in the past inaugurated its Maison des Métiers d’artwork, a spot the place misplaced and even forgotten arts achieve new life, with artisans working to maintain these extraordinary disciplines. As well as, at each SIHH, the corporate presents dazzling items that revisit strategies akin to filigree or Etruscan granulation.
Jacob&Co Quenttin Baguette Picture: Trendy Luxurious
Extremely “mechanical” manufacturers clearly have a card to play on this recreation by setting their items with gems. The three-dimensional configuration of substances trains towards a diamond backdrop makes for a transfixing visible impact. Between the gemstone and the mechanism, it’s not possible to say which one is best positioned to put declare to this well-known piece of eternity. Jacob & Co. demonstrated its mastery of this explosive artwork with items such because the Astronomia Tourbillon Baguette, “a poetic imaginative and prescient of the celestial world,” and with its Quenttin Tourbillon Baguette, which affords 31 days of energy reserve regulated by a vertical tourbillon. These are simply two fashions amongst a number of that mix uncommon technical sophistication with a subversive aesthetic.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Picture: Trendy Luxurious
This explosive cocktail can also be served up at Roger Dubuis, a model that has made a specialty of “up to date” skeletonization in its actions and its tourbillon, two particularities that marry superbly within the Excalibur assortment, an expression of the model’s highly effective—even outrageous—model. At Roger Dubuis, the artwork of gem-setting is at all times within the combine, particularly as the home was the primary to include uncommon strategies: setting gems into rubber and carbon. This nonconformist strategy is per the picture of the model, for which a timepiece is far more than an instrument for displaying the hours and minutes. That can also be the philosophy that conjures up all of the watches in these pages: they replicate every part that we’re!
Because the arbiter of “jewellery for males,” watches fulfill a specific, multifaceted operate. Whether or not their focus is on simplicity or sophistication, class or rugged sportsmanship, high-tech breakthroughs or time-honored custom, these high-end timepieces convey a posh imaginative and prescient of masculinity. No matter a person values, nevertheless he sees himself, he’s certain to discover a timepiece that helps him notice specific his distinctive character.